For enthusiasts of high altitudes, ice, and snow, Ortles offers a captivating challenge. This mighty and majestic mountain, the highest peak in South Tyrol and in all the Alps east of the Bernina, is adorned with glaciers on all sides. Among the numerous routes to the summit, all demanding in terms of elevation gain and technical difficulty, the normal route from the north is the most accessible. The breathtaking panorama and total immersion in this extraordinary environment make the climb an unforgettable experience.
From Solda, just behind the small church of S. Geltrude (1850 m), trail N.4 winds through a pleasant Swiss pine forest, leading to the moraine of the Vedretta di Marlet, a glacier covered in debris. After a short, steep section, you reach the Tabaretta Hut (2556 m), an excellent panoramic viewpoint. From here, the trail continues towards the Forcella dell'Orso (2879 m), where a stop is essential to admire the majestic Ortles glacier and the surrounding mountains near the Stelvio Pass. Following the northern ridge, you cross some exposed but equipped sections, eventually reaching the Passo della Tabaretta (2883 m). A final ascent leads to the Payer Hut (3020 m).
Starting early from the hut, often with the help of headlamps, you ascend the northern slope of Punta Tabaretta, crossing a rocky notch and continuing up the steep western face. After reaching an initial saddle, you follow the ridge with easy climbing sections, becoming progressively more exposed until the second saddle. From here, a route equipped with ladders and chains ascends a 60-meter wall, crossing exposed slabs and leading to a shoulder at 3204 m, where you access the glacier. Crossing the glacier to the Eisrinne gully, you climb quickly to avoid the dangers of seracs, reaching the Bivacco Lombardi at 3316 m. After a short rock climb (III° grade), you continue the ascent on the glacier, navigating steep and crevassed sections, and then proceed along gentler slopes to the summit. Return via the same route.
The equipment marked with (*) can be provided by the guide if you do not have it, at a cost of 10 euros per item.
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