Presanella is the highest peak located entirely within the Trentino region. From the summit, you can enjoy a panoramic view that stretches from the Brenta to the Adamello, all the way to the Ortles-Cevedale group. Additionally, there is a stunning view of the impressive north face, renowned for its captivating ice and mixed climbing routes.
To reach the summit of Presanella, there are two main routes, each with distinct characteristics and levels of difficulty.
The first route, the normal one from the Southeast, passes by Rifugio Segantini and features a trail that alternates between equipped sections and small snowfields to cross. This route offers a varied and scenic environment, with exposed sections that nonetheless require some attention. The views along the way are breathtaking, with wide panoramas that encompass the entire mountain range.
The second route, from the West, traverses a glacial alpine environment, passing by Rifugio Denza. This itinerary is more demanding and takes place in a harsher setting, characterized by glaciers and crevasses. It requires a solid understanding of ice-climbing techniques and the use of alpine equipment. The ascent offers a more isolated and adventurous experience, with the satisfaction of tackling a complete alpine challenge.
Both routes lead to the summit of Presanella, providing unique emotions and spectacular views that more than compensate for the effort required. Whether you choose the more hiking-oriented route from the Southeast or the more alpine route from the West, the ascent of Presanella is a memorable experience.
Based on the chosen itinerary, the time and meeting place for late morning will be agreed upon. After the briefing and equipment check, we will head towards either the Denza Refuge or the Segantini Refuge.
From Segantini Hut:
You start before dawn and follow a trail marked with white-red paint and stone cairns, heading west. Initially, you walk along the crest of a moraine and then proceed over boulders and snow-covered areas with a moderate slope. After crossing the boulders and snow, you tackle a via ferrata that leads to the Bocchetta di Monte Nero, followed by a short descent to the Vedretta di Nardis Orientale. You then ascend the snowfield and climb through easy rocky sections to the south ridge and the chimneys, which are crossed via an equipped section, reaching the Bivacco Orobica. From the bivouac, you continue over boulders and snow patches until you reach the summit of Cima Presanella (3,558 m).
Form Denza Hut:
From Rifugio Denza, begin the ascent by following the trail marked with white-red paint and stone cairns towards Laghetto della Presanella. Ignore the trail leading to Passo dei Pozzi and continue left towards Passo Cercen. Ascend the detrital valley between the moraine of the Vedretta Presanella and the scree of the Cresta di San Giacomo. Cross the Vedretta Presanella glacier and reach Passo Cercen. From there, continue up steep slopes to Passo Freshfield, crossing any crevasses and scree sections. From Passo Freshfield, descend through a scree gully (with fixed rope) to the Vedretta di Nardis glacier. Traverse around Cima di Vermiglio and climb left to the col known as Sella della Muraccia, following the ridge to the summit of Cima Presanella.
The equipment marked with (*) can be provided by the guide if you do not have it, at a cost of 10 euros per item.
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