Gran Zebrù is one of those peaks that really stays with you. It’s stunning to look at — and even better to climb. From the very start, it takes you into a different world: snow underfoot, total silence, and views that keep getting better as you go. We head out early, before the day really begins, and move through high alpine terrain that clears your mind and fills your eyes. Step by step, the climb flows naturally, and suddenly — there you are, on the summit, surrounded by endless peaks. It’s not just about reaching the top. It’s the kind of day you carry with you — and one you’ll definitely enjoy telling others about.
We meet in Santa Caterina and transfer to the Forni car park (~2,100 m). From there we head up to Rifugio Pizzini (2,700 m), where we spend the night.
The next morning, we start early across rocky moraines toward the Gran Zebrù glacier. Crampons and ice axe on, we follow snowy slopes that lead us into the ‘Collo di Bottiglia’ — a steep couloir at 50° max — climbed in short rope teams for safety. At the top, we gain the southeast ridge: exposed, snow-covered, and super scenic. Final push to the summit cross at 3,858 m. Descent via the same route.
The equipment marked with (*) can be provided by the guide if you do not have it, at a cost of 10 euros per item.
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